Day trip guide to a historic shipbuilding town

Start at the dry docks

Begin your day where the town’s story began: at the water’s edge, beside the old dry docks. Arrive before 10am if you can. Parking near the harbour fills quickly, especially on market days and when the tide is high enough for the lock gates to open. Pay and display is usually straightforward, but keep coins or a card handy; some machines are old enough to have seen a shipwright’s lunch break.

The graving dock is the centrepiece. Even when empty, its stepped sides and iron bollards tell a story of repairs, refits, and launch days. Look for the capstan, the rusted chains, and the marks left by keels. If the dock gates are closed, you may be able to walk along the top, but never climb down into the dock itself. Harbour walls are slippery, and the tide can turn faster than you think.

• Check tide times before you travel. A low tide can reveal mud berths and old timbers; a high tide brings the harbour to life.
• Wear shoes with grip. Cobbles, setts, and wet wooden jetties are charming but unforgiving.
• Ask at the heritage centre about guided walks. Volunteers often know which dock gates are open and when the boatyard is working.

Victorian warehouses and the old quay

From the dry docks, follow the quay past Victorian warehouses. These tall, brick buildings once held grain, rope, tobacco, and ships’ provisions. Many now house studios, cafés, and small workshops, but the bones remain: iron hoists, loading doors, and wide eaves. Walk slowly. The best details are above eye level — carved dates, faded signs, and the occasional iron crane.

The old quay is where the town’s maritime heritage feels most alive. Look for ballast mounds, mooring rings, and the harbour master’s office. A chandlery may still sell shackles, twine, and waterproofs. If you see a rope walk or a sail loft, peek in if invited; these trades are rare and worth supporting.

Mid-morning is a good time for coffee. Choose a place with a window onto the water, then carry on towards the working boatyard.

A working boatyard and a proper lunch

The boatyard is not a museum. It is a place of work, with hoists, trailers, and half-finished hulls. Stand back, ask before entering, and keep children close. If a boat is being lifted, wait until the slings are clear. You may see caulking, painting, or engine work — the same skills that built the town’s reputation.

For lunch, avoid the obvious chains and look for a quayside pub or a small café with a daily special. Fish is the obvious choice, but a decent ploughman’s or a bowl of chowder will keep you going. Check food serving times; many kitchens close between 2.30pm and 5pm. If the weather is fine, take your food to a bench and watch the dinghies.

Sailing and maritime heritage

After lunch, get on the water if you can. Many historic shipbuilding towns offer short sailing trips, taster sessions, or rowing boat hire. Book ahead in summer. If you prefer to stay dry, follow the maritime heritage trail instead. It often links the dock, the church, the sailor’s almshouses, and the old school.

• Sailing taster: usually two hours, no experience needed, but bring a windproof layer.
• Museum or heritage centre: small, volunteer-run, and full of ship models, tools, and photographs.
• Church and almshouses: look for memorials to shipwrights, captains, and lifeboat crews.
• Boatyard tour: ask if a boatbuilder can spare ten minutes; many will, if you avoid lunchtime.

Evening: a pint where the shipwrights drank

As the light fades, head for the pub that still feels like a shipwright’s local. You can spot it by the low beams, the worn floorboards, and the photographs of launch days on the wall. The beer is likely to be local, the welcome dry, and the conversation full of tides and tools. Order a pint of the house ale and find a corner seat.

If you want food, check the kitchen hours. Many pubs serve until 8.30pm or 9pm, but not always on Sundays. Ask about the pub’s history: who drank here, which yard workers used the back room, and whether the bar was once a saw pit. Then raise a glass to the town’s maritime heritage — and to the working boatyard still keeping it afloat.